Alaska Trip 2011: Going fishing north of Petersburg

Day 18: Petersburg to Thomas Bay. 21-miles

Time to go fishing.  In previous posts I have alluded to a lack of serious fishing experience, while this is true I do like to "catch fish".  The key word there is catch.  Growing up around Puget Sound in the 1970's there were not a lot fish to be caught.  We are in Alaska, and these guys DO catch fish!

I met a fellow on the dock that offered me a chance to look at his 1989 NOAA Fishing Maps with salmon and halibut hotspots colored in...that is what I needed!  It was a James Bond moment as I snapped clandestine photos of the pages with my tiny Canon camera, 007 would have used a Minox but where would I find one of those in Petersburg?  The spy photos revealed a nice habitat for my target species in Thomas Bay, just 10-miles north.  Thomas has also been the 10,000-year host of the Baird Glacier and had some good looking anchorages.  We were off!

The Alaska Ferry Matanuska entering Petersburg.


The route I plotted included a stop between the Sukhoi Islands for quick bounce of the halibut jig.  The water was calm, but we found no takers for our offering of Octopus with circle hook.

Looking Northeast from Petersburg


Thomas Bay has a shallow entry with rocks on both sides, and is clearly marked with red & green buoys.  The protected Bay is filled with emerald green glacial water.  There was zero wind so we chose the large bay with a 150-foot deep flat bottom and offered more octopus.  We drifted only 300-yards in two hours, but found no halibut.  Off again to tour the Bay and see the Glacier.

Halibut fishing in Thomas Bay.  The weather has been great.

The Baird is at the north end of the Bay, with deeply scarred granite mountain sides.  It is clear that this chunk of ice has been tearing away at the rock with incredible force.  Now a bit smaller having receded like all the other Alaskan Glaciers, it is still huge.  The ice is 10,000 years old and shows its wear, dirt and age.  This is not one of those picturesque eery blue glaciers with fresh calving, where you want to chip a piece off and put in your aged Scotch, those begin a full day farther north.  Still very impressive. 

The Baird Glacier.  Click on photo for larger view. 


At the foot of Glacier is also where Cindy and I turned Cinnamon Girl around and realized that this is as far north as we were going.  57.05.248-Degrees North and 643 direct line miles from home.  945-miles under the keel since leaving Bellingham 18-days ago.  Time flies when you are having FUN!

Rockfall above Thomas Bay.  Jenkins Peak.


We anchored in Ruth Island Cove at the south end of Thomas Bay, in a little nook opposite the large mud flats that use to be the terminus of the Patterson Glacier, now receded.  This was good holding in 40-feet of water.  We put out the crab pot, as I am really good at that!

Alaska Trip 2011: To Petersburg via the Wrangell Narrows

Day 17:  Meyers Chuck to Petersburg.  A fun scenic cruise.  75-miles

You may recall from an earlier posting that we have some extra time in Southeast Alaska due to our fast trip up from Bellingham.  Upon reviewing the charts we decided to use the extra time to see Petersburg and spend more time fishing around Wrangell.  Today is our day to make way to Petersburg.  This is a 75-mile run via the famous Wrangell Narrows, a 21-mile canal marked with 62-buoys.  Before tackling this leg I needed to read up on it, Cinnamon Girl has an excellent library. The Exploring Southeast Alaska book by the Douglass's covers this thoroughly.

Meyers Chuck at first light.

We set our alarm clock for low tide, as the flood will push us up Clarence Strait.  Guess what time...4am again.  This flood would get us to Point Alexander and the entrance to the Narrows.  Wrangell Narrows fills from both ends much like Grenville Channel, with a natural convergence near marker "R48", a little over half-way up.  We would probably buck the ebb current for 12-miles, but big deal as this was one of those channels I always wanted to see.  We should get the current with us for the final 9-miles.  Now we have a plan for the day.  75-miles is an aggressive day, but we have found the American Tug is really comfortable.  We have been cruising nearly all of the trip at 8-knots with Oly turning 1240-rpm, using the reserve power several times to make the trip easier.

Off we go!  We cleared the docks and worked our way out the rocky entrance, the rocks were all hidden last night at high tide.   Now we see why Meyers Chuck is so well protected!  Be sure to follow that entrance carefully when you visit.

Here is the log of June 12, 2011:

4:05 am: Engine checks OK, fired up Oly.
4:10 am: Underway at low tide, wind 6-knots easterly.  All reefs exposed!
7:45 am: Humpback whale on port side.  Calm. 
8:20 am: "Disney Wonder" (966' loa) passes south bound doing 22.1-knots.

The "Disney Wonder" heading to Victoria.  I would take a cruise if they would let me drive!

9:05 am: Humpback whales at Snow Passage.  Calm & no-wind. 

11:20 am: Entered Wrangell Narrows at Point Alexander.  Calm, still getting positive flood current!
2:05 pm:  Arrived Petersburg.  Slip C-651 South Basin.

Petersburg from the water.  Click for larger photo.


We did get positive water up the first third of Wrangell Narrows.  Cinnamon Girl arrived as predicted, but the current was still pushing us nicely, which was great.  Eventually we started losing about a knot of speed and that was fine as the Canal is very scenic with many nice houses, resorts, tributaries and waterfowl.  It is a great cruise in itself.  The current started flowing with us right where the guide book said it would!  When we reached Petersburg we had a 2-knot push. 

The Narrows is very well marked with 62-marks, 5-ranges, countless other indicators.  It was fun and should not be intimidating, it is an easy run.  Wrangell Narrows is the only protected waterway linking north and south Southeast Alaska, it is used by all types of commerce including barge traffic.  The alternative is to go "outside" and that means the Pacific.  Be sure to do this in your boating career.  We get to go back down Monday or Tuesday, I am already looking forward to it.

The other Cinnamon Girl.  Click for larger photo.  Note all the marks.

62 numbered buoys and marks on the Narrows.  Very easy to navigate.  Click for larger.


Petersburg is an authentic commercial fishing town.  They also do a little logging.  No cruise ships call on this port.  Main street reflects its Norwegian settlers heritage, kind of like a working Poulsbo.  The people we met were very nice.  I am glad that we came.

Fisherman's Memorial and the Sons of Norway Lodge.

The streets of Petersburg.  Norwegian heritage.  A work boat town.

Alaska Trip 2011: Exiting the Fjords and turning north.

Day 16:  Short Bay and around the corner to Meyers Chuck.  56-miles

After the disappointment of not seeing any bears on the beach at 4am, I returned to the rack and slept in.  If the bears can miss low tide, then so can I.  Cindy made pancakes for breakfast.  A leisurely morning aboard Cinnamon Girl at Short Bay.  Maybe it was the sound of the river or all the birds, but we were content to stay tied to the mooring and relax.  I also knew that if low tide was 4am, than high tide was around 10am and I wanted that extra current shove down Western Behm Canal.

Exiting Short Bay and back into the Fjords.

We fished at Point Francis,  trolling with the other boats.  We did not see anyone net a fish, my record stays intact!

Cindy yelled "Whale" and the downriggers came up fast.  A humpback was making his way past the point, our first whale sighting of the trip.  It is always exciting to see these fantastic creatures.

Humpback off Point Francis.  Eastern Behm Canal.

Waiting for the whale to come back up.

Meyers Chuck is a cool place.  We tied to their community dock.  There is a "public" trail that I would like to explore, hopefully Cinnamon Girl will be back later in the week.  Meyers Chuck might be described as a weekend vacation community for Ketchikan residents with a few full timers.  There are about 50-cabins and a post office that only picks up on Tuesdays.  I like it.

Downtown Meyers Chuck.  At the head of the nice community dock.

The Post Office. 

 Cutting logs into lumber.  Fishing & Logging are Alaska industries.

Pickup is every Tuesday at 10am. 

I wonder if it still takes a dime?  Look closely for the bird nest on top of the phone.

Near sunset.  Looking north, protected by a reef in the background.

Cinnamon Girl with a nice west view.

The community dock.  Plenty of space and very protected.

Alaska Trip 2011: Misty Fjords National Monument & upper Behm Canal.

Day 15:  Manzanita Bay to Short Bay.  Second day in Misty Fjords.  40-miles

Manzanita Bay was great.  Spent the night at the head of the bay anchored in 90-feet of water with good holding.  Slept fantastic.  We were the only boat for miles.  Silent.

Cindy at the wheel.  She is a great skipper.

We spent the morning halibut fishing in Manzanita.  We motored to the center of the bay, idled "Oly" and drifted in 140-feet of water while I bounced the halibut rig off the bottom.  The halibut were safe once again!

Walker Bay, Misty Fjords National Monument.  Click for larger picture.

I had it on good authority that nearly anyone could catch a salmon in Behm Narrows at slack water.   We started motoring that way at Noon and timed our arrival at the east end for 20-minutes before slack, as I needed to sort out the downriggers.  The Narrows begin at the edge of the "no salmon fishing" zone, Alaska does not allow salmon fishing in Eastern Behm Canal, so there should be plenty here.  Cinnamon Girl's marine gear is fitted with Volvo's electronic trolling valve, so we can really slow her down.  Nothing...   That is probably the reason we were the only boat there.  It is an absolutely beautiful place and the old expression "a bad day fishing is bettter than a good day doing anything else" proved itself very true. 

Behm Narrows, upper Behm Canal.  We are the only boat around.

We tied to the Forest Service buoy at the head of Short Bay.  This may be the greenest place I have ever been.  The water is green, the shore is all trees, the head of the bay is green grass.  The best part was the sound, where Manzanita was silent, Short Bay sounds like nature.  The river pouring into its head, the small birds, geese quacking, Eagles calling, and all while a harbor seal circled the boat.  Oh, and they have crab here, big crab.   Tom Nelson told me that he once counted 21-bears on the beach here when the pink salmon were running.   Cindy & I need to come back and see that! 

















Short Bay, the "sounds of nature" were amazing.

Another very still night at anchor with the pleasant background sound of the river.

I set my alarm clock to see if any bear were on the beach.   Guess what time was low tide...4am.  Ugh!  No bears.

Alaska Trip 2011: Misty Fjords National Monument

Day 14:  Ketchikan to Manzanita Bay, Misty Fjords National Monument.  50 miles

After strolling quiet Ketchikan last night, we woke to a new bustling city that had tripled in population, the cruise ships were in town!  From sleepy frontier town to tourist trap.  I needed an Alaska Fishing License and some bait so we braved the mean streets and found a cool shop; The Tongass Trading Company. Now before you shut me down in horror, as the main floor is where the cruise ship guests go for moose hats (see yesterdays post) and canned salmon snacks, the place is like Ketchikan as it transforms itself.  The upstairs is a really great sporting goods shop with serious gear.  I am confident that you could find Extratuff boots for your entire family here, as well as plentiful fishing tackle. We were able to get on the water by lunchtime.

The "Monsterdam" leaving Ketchikan, three others behind her.

Off to Misty Fjords National Monument.  This was my goal for the trip, as I have wanted to cruise in the Fjords ever since reading about it.  Wow!  Like an Alaska sized Yosemite for boats.  New Eddystone Rock...amazing.  Rudeyerd Bay & the Punchbowl...incredible.

New Eddystone Rock, named by Capt. Vancouver.  Click for larger.

Everywhere you look it is breathtaking; huge granite walls, snow capped mountains, emerald green water, more waterfalls.  The sun and mist were battling for supremacy on the day we entered,  it is properly named!  This should be on the top-ten list of places to take your new American Tug  (call me and I can help you get set up with the proper boat!).

Rudeyerd Bay Granite Walls & waterfall.  Click for larger.

The Punchbowl with a single Forest Service mooring buoy at far end

More waterfalls.  They are everywhere and spectacular.

We anchored in Manzanita Bay, on the western shore, a few miles beyond the New Eddystone.   We were the only boat, in fact we only saw one other boat in all of Eastern Behm Canal and he was tied to the Forest Service Buoy in Punchbowl...I wanted that buoy!  In nearly 80-miles of cruising a National Treasure we only saw one boat, that alone is reason to come here.

Manzanita Bay at sunset.   We were the only boat for miles.

Another great day on the water.

Trip Plan: Exploring SE Alaska? We are here several days early...

Alaska Trip Plan:  Misty Fjords, Wrangell & Petersburg   350-miles

Our original trip plans were solid, well thought out days.  Plans are made to be broken!  You can see them in the earlier blog posts.

We had great weather and the American Tug is so comfortable, we layed down the miles and arrived 4-days ahead of the conservative schedule.  That means we have more time in South East Alaska! 

What to do...go cruise more!  We originally hoped to circumnavigate Revillagigedo Island.  Now it looks like we can add Wrangell, the Anan bear reserve and Petersburg to our itinerary.

The new plan!


Tom Nelson the builder of American Tugs, has sent me some very detailed fishing instructions for the area up near Wrangell, he kept a boat here for years.  My friend Stacey Wilson is flying in on the 14th and we plan to bag some big ones.  Cinnamon Girl is Tom's old boat and is well equipped with trolling valve, power downriggers, salmon & halibut gear, prawn & crab traps.  We have the new tackle that I bought in Prince Rupert.  I am really looking forward to trying that Halibut recipe in my blog on fishing
.
The new plan adds about 350 miles of exploring to the 700 we have already covered.  This is why we are here. 

Thanks for reading our blog and be sure to tune in for more adventures of Cinnamon Girl.  This is a great boat!   Steve & Cindy

The view out our window changed since last night...  Time to get out of Ketchikan!

Alaska Trip 2011: Crossing Dixon Entrance to Alaska!

Day 13:  On to Alaska!  Prince Rupert, BC to Ketchikan - 78 Miles

Prince Rupert, BC before sunrise.  A busy port!

We woke way to early this morning.  I listened to both the US and Canadian weather on the VHF and were happy to learn that the forecast improved overnight.  It is go time!

Dixon Entrance is the second of the open water legs on the "Inside Passage" and this far north can really get some weather.  Today was predicted for 1-meter seas (swell & waves combined) and 10-15 knots of wind, which is about as good as the forecasters ever say.  If the weather gets bad there are a few places to duck and anchor; on the Canadian side is Brundige Inlet on Dundas Island and on the US side is Foggy Bay which US Customs would like you to pre-register for if you have not cleared into the US, by calling the Ketchikan Border Patrol office the day before.  Our plan was to go all the way to Ketchikan. 

The log of Cinnamon Girl for June 8th, 2011:

4:30 am  Engine Checks OK.  Fired up "Oly".  Barometer 1025Mb.  Weather VHF improved, good forecast!
4:45 am  Depart Prince Rupert R&YC.  First light.
5:15 am  Entered Venn Passage. Cool passage, tight & well marked

Entrance to Venn Passage before sunrise, the narrow passage way from Prince Rupert to open water.

5:55 am  Exited Venn, turned northerly to Dundas waypoint.
8:00 am  Passed Green Island Light House.  Calm seas.  Wind 8.5 Southerly. 

Green Island Lighthouse off Dundage

8:55 am  Crossed USA/Canadian Line.  300-degrees, 8.7 SOG.  Smooth water, Wind 9 Southerly

That is Alaska off the starboard bow!

The Tanerlio heading south

12:15 pm  Passed Pt Winslow & Crowley Tug Tanerlio.  Smooth water, very overcast, wind 7.

Point Wilson with Tamgas Mountain in the backgroung

Many more boats active around Ketchikan than anywhere else we have been.

3:15 pm  Arrived Ketchikan.  Thomas Basin slip 5-30.  704-trip miles since leaving Bellingham.
4:00 pm  Cleared Customs.  Cindy remembered to take down the Canadian Courtesy Flag, we are back in the USA.

Cinnamon Girl at Thomas Basin.  

Our crossing was super smooth.  Best weather I could have hoped for. Cinnamon Girl has exceeded every expectation that I had for her.  She is a great passagemeker. 

The first hour between the Venn Passage exit and Dundas Island we had a beam sea and a little swell, I kicked the engine up by only 30-rpm (about .2 gph) and that extra little bit of speed put a bit more hydraulic pressure under the semi-displacement hull and she just locked down and rode great.  The American Tugs are beamy boats and that means stability under way, and stability at anchor.  The hull has a hard chine with lots of floatation out at the edges where the wide stance stops any rolling motion. A very comfortable boat.

The weather is really nice.  Short sleeves.  Mid 60's.  We took a walk around town.  Thomas Basin is part of the Port and located in the historic "downtown" part of Ketchikan.  We strolled the "Creek Street" boardwalk and enjoyed the evening.  No cruise ships in today, so many of the shops did not open, the "downtown" area is where the cruise ships berth.  We found a great shop on Creek Street named Parnassus Books, Cindy bought a moose Christmas ornament and I have a new book on Marine Mammals of BC & Alaska.  We had a fun evening. 

It is good to be in Alaska.  The people are very friendly and the scenery...well everything is just more grand.  This is big country.  Thanks for following along.  

Your hosts on Creek Street,  old "downtown" Ketchikan.

My personal favorite photo of the entire trip!  Tongass Trading Co., a cruise ship store.