Alaska Trip 2011: Namu & Ocean Falls, life amongst the ruins

Day 9:  Fitz Hugh Sound & Fisher Channel - Once thriving communities now getting by.  54 miles

Pruth Bay looking east - a gorgeous morning

Like glass.  Last night at anchor was silent, not a whisper of wind.  Just a wonderful night aboard Cinnamon Girl.  The view out the pilothouse window this morning was beautiful.  I highly recommend Pruth Bay.  In hind sight I wish we went strait there after rounding Cape Caution.  Fury Island Cove was great, but we anchored early in the day after an easy rounding.  If we had gone just two more hours we could have watched the sunset at West Beach!  

In reviewing the charts we need to move up Fitz Hugh Sound, which becomes Fisher Channel.  The road to Alaska then takes a jog to the west via Shearwater, which is tomorrows destination.  That leaves today to explore Namu and Ocean Falls, kind of odd as both are trying to avoid becoming ghost towns.  That is correct, we visited both struggling communities in one day...  But there is life in these former towns!

Namu was a fish packing town.  Two-thousand workers in its hay day.  Now there are three.  She is a victim of refrigeration and declining fish runs.  Canned salmon is not as popular as fresh.  The plant closed in the 1980's and maintenance stopped, rainfall and gravity have continued.  Pete & Rene Darwin and their friend Theresa are the caretakers.  They run a guest dock that looks like it is pretty fun.  Namu is 20-miles from Pruth Bay and on the normal "Inside Passage" route.  Click here to see more pictures of Namu.

Namu from the water, the old freighter might get used to haul away the scraps...or become them.

Pete & Rene's guest dock & party barge.  Looks like a good time.   Larry Morrison of the AT-34 "Forever Friday" said it has great sunsets and often the Humpbacks "sing" as they move down the channel. 

Cinnamon Girl on the dock, the building to the left is Rene's gift shop

Rene and Theresa putting some eel grass in the sunken barges "moon pool".  There is life amongst the failing buildings and crumbling piers.   They have planted gardens for flowers and vegetables along the edges of the buildings, and make a life for themselves in a really pretty area.  I will come back again.

That is me at the wheel of Cinnamon Girl - American Tug 41, what a great boat!

Ocean Falls has been on my "must see" list for a long time.  It was a pulp mill town.  It has a good sized concrete dam that supplies power to the region.  In 1980 the mill closed for good and the town went from 5,000 residents to about 40-100 depending on the season.  The large 1947 hotel, the ugly 1964 cast concrete apartment building, the late 60's concrete tilt-up school & gymnasium, and most of the old houses are quickly failing.  But the few who stayed are making a stand.  The church is nicely kept.  The grocery store is now open 6-hours per week!   Martin Valley (a mile away and part of the same community) has very affordable view homes, great fishing & recreation.  Cindy remarked the mountains look like Switzerland.   Ocean Falls is 30-miles beyond Namu, and 20-miles beyond the channel leading to Shearwater and the "Inside Passage".  Click here to see more photos of Ocean Falls.

As you round the corner on Cousin's Inlet you can hear the water roaring over the dam.

Really good docks.  Free wireless, 30-amp power and water for washing the boat.  The infrastructure for visiting boaters is nice.  Ocean Falls is a 40-mile round trip from the normal "Inside Passage" route, but I am glad that we came.   I saw many American Tug owners had signed the guest book. 

They take pride in 169-inches of annual rain fall.  4.5 times as much as Seattle!

Looks like the recreation center is free...  crumbling hotel in background.  This was once a very proud city.

The dam is only a short walk from the docks.  Built 90-years ago.  Link Lake is behind.  

I hope the people of Namu and Ocean Falls make a go of it, and I appreciate them letting me walk around and take pictures.  It must be odd to have tourists come to view what you are slowly losing to nature.  It was a great day of boating; always fun to explore new areas.

Tomorrow we are heading back down Cousin's Inlet and over to Shearwater via Gunboat Passage.  The weather is changing and it looks like a blow is coming through.  We will watch the weather closely.

The Dependable Crab Trap & the Dependable Prawn Trap

These are really good folding crab & shrimp traps.  I have used them for years.

The Dependable Trap Company - Crab trap, prawn is simialar with finer mesh.

A long time ago I bought a Dependable Crab Trap.  Probably ten-years and 200-300 crabs have passed on.  These traps work very well.  Later I picked up a pair of the prawn models, also very productive.

Made near Vancouver, Canada.   I have only ever seen them for sale in British Columbia.  Bill at Lagoon Cove sells them.  Stevetson in Vancouver has them.  Ocean Marine at Campbell River is where I bought mine.   About $70 in steel and $100 in stainless.

Folded - perfect to store on the boat


This is one of their new stainless  crab models.  They make them in standard steel and recently started offering them in stainless for a few extra bucks.  Mine are lightly oxidized, I am careful to rinse in fresh water after using, but I wish they were as shiny as the new stainless crab trap in the photo.

Ideal for your American Tug.

Sam & Diane of LaBelle (AT-34 #14) with a bunch of crab in their new stainless Dependable Trap.  Diane is wearing the gloves...do you suppose that Sam is going to have her empty it?

Alaska Trip 2011: Pruth Bay and the walk over to West Beach

Day 8: Pruth Bay near Hakai Passage.  A beautiful beach.   19 Miles

The next several days are going to be short moves in the boat and much more about exploring the Fitz Hugh Sound area.  It is a fantastic cruising playground.   The charts show a nearly endless collection of fjords and anchorages to investigate. 

We had a leisurely morning and hung around Fury Island Cove until about 9:30 am.  It was really pretty and very tranquil there.  I must admit that I slept in.  There was not a ripple on the water.

Today's destination was recommended by several of the the American Tug owners, in fact it was pretty much unanimous that it was a must see.  Pruth Bay, The Hakai Beach Institute and a walk over to West Beach on the Pacific Ocean side of Calvert Island.

Nice anchorage in Pruth Bay.  Cindy at the wheel.


Pruth Bay is at the head of Kwakshua Channel, seven miles west of Fitz Hugh Sound.  This is the same channel that leads to Hakai Passage, a legendary fishing spot.  Good anchoring in sand, about 42-feet deep.  We are in the middle of three bays and just in front of the Hakai Beach Institute, the new owners of the former fishing lodge.  The Institute welcomes boaters and have made their beach trails available.   They also made their wireless internet accessible, I am using it now!   Thank you for being so friendly.

View from the Hakai Institute docks. 

The Hakai Beach Institute and access to the beach trails.

My main interest in Pruth was the walk to the beach on the Pacific side of Calvert Island.   It turns out there are many beaches, with West Beach and North Beach most popular.  The trails are well marked and nicely maintained.  A walk through the cedars with bridges over the damp spots.  About a half mile in and you will start to hear the surf breaking, then wow!!  

West Beach - click to see full size

That is Japan in the far far background...

White sand beaches, and very few foot prints!

The beach was really special.  In trying to take some good photos I kept thinking what would Kelly do? 

I hope this is not like watching your uncles vacation slide show in the basement.  I remember having to endure that and am aspiring to keep the content relevant.   Tomorrow we are going to explore Ocean Falls.

Alaska Trip 2011: Around Cape Caution and into Fitz Hugh Sound

Day 7:  Port McNeill and into the Pacific, then to Fury Island Cove - 67 miles

Click to see larger - The "Waggoner" Pine Island route


Most cruisers on the Inside Passage are concerned about only two legs, those exposed to the Pacific Ocean.  Cape Caution just north of Vancouver Island, and Dixon Entrance between Prince Rupert & Ketchikan.  The rest of the trip is mostly fjords and are very protected.  Today's leg was the Cape Caution run...and it was super smooth and easy for Cinnamon Girl!

I started listening to the Environment Canada weather broadcasts on the VHF a few days in advance.  Well actually I listen everyday, but I started paying closer attention while anchored up near Echo Bay.  I even wrote down some notes, and listened for the buoy wave height data for West Sea Otter.  The weather can also be found on the internet at: http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/marine/forecast_e.html?mapID=02&siteID=02300  This is a really great resource.  The guest moorage in Port McNeill has a new wireless internet service they installed this spring.  Thank you!!

The weather pattern we are experiencing is very calm.  Wind 5-15 knots and wave heights of 1 meter.  This is super mild and was exactly what I was hoping for.  The American Tugs are tough boats and capable of rough weather, but I am not.  Cindy's stomach is a bit stronger than mine...

On the longer legs I like to get out on the water early, first light is about 5 am now.  This is before the land heats up and draws in the wind.  Leaving early also means that I get more time in the afternoon to screw around and explore.  Cruising is about the journey and not the destination!

Port McNeill at 5am - no wind...just what we wanted to see!

I read Bob Hale's article on rounding Cape Caution in the 2011 Waggoner Guide about three times, read similar articles in a few other guides and decided to follow Bob's advice.  Larry Morrison who owns the American Tug 34 "Forever Friday" also wrote me a great email with all sorts of tips, he and Laura have spent the better part of two summers cruising the Fitz Hugh Sound area. 

Notes from my Log of  June 2nd, 2011 for Cinnamon Girl:
5:00 am - Performed all engine checks, all OK. 
5:10 am - Fired up the engine.  1863.7 hours on the engine, 1020Mb on barometer.  Weather calm, no wind
5:20 am - Depart Port McNeill

7:30 am - "Island Princess" Cruise ship in Gordon Channel.  AIS says it is 960' loa, and going 11-kts.

9:15 am - Pilot Vessel "Riley" to port, they are returning from escorting the cruise ship past Pine Island

9:25 am - Pine Island lighthouse to starboard.  Wind 5-kts
11:00 am - Rounded Cape Caution - 3-miles offshore.  Wind 8-kts, small swell
12:45 pm - Entered Rivers Inlet & Fitz Hugh Sound.   Wind 6-kts

12:45 pm - Alaska Marine Highway ferry "Columbia" heading south to Bellingham

1:30 pm - Anchored in Fury Island Cove.  Beautiful white sand beach!

Then I took a nap!   Yacht brokers are not supposed to get up at 4:45 am.   Ranchers and farmers get up that early.

It was a really great day on the water.  Navigating was fun.  Cinnamon Girl performed great.  The AT's are wonderful boats in a sea way.  They do not have any tendency to roll because of the hard chines, so are  very comfortable to be aboard.  Life is good.
After my nap I puttered around the boat, and relaxed.  Fury Island Cove has a beautiful white sand beach and a view towards the west.  I fired up the barbecue and we had grilled chicken and a salad.  It was nice to have a break from crab, never thought I would say those words... 

Cindy and I folded out the big "Inside Passage Route Planning Map" on the dining table and put "post-it's" all over it with places we want to see or others have recommended.   Some are day stops, others factors are cell phone access (I still work, call if I can help you find your next boat 206-321-7496), power or water, or the now important internet access.  I like quiet anchorages, First Nations history, and good holding.  We are planning to stop at Pruth Bay (Bob Linton & Larry Morrision both said it is great), Ocean Falls (always read about it), Shearwater and Bottleneck Inlet before we start laying down more northerly miles.  The places we will see another day are; the outside of Hunter Island, Namu, Codville Lagoon, New Bella Bella (we might dinghy over there this time), Klemtu and Butedale.  There is always next year!

If you have any suggestions of things for us to see or do, please email me at: steve@expeditionyachtsales.com

Thanks for tuning in.  Steve & Cindy

The Woodland Power Burner

A perfect high-output crab cooking burner for your American Tug

Sam Hill of LaBelle (AT-34 #14) with a nice catch

Your American Tug has taken you to a great destination, the road less traveled where crab are in abundance.  Now you need to cook them up...  Cooking crab is a bit stinky, and you caught a mess of them. You need the Woodland Power Burner!  It is a really nice all stainless folding cooker.  Very high output at 65,000 btu's.  And just like your American Tug it is built here.  In fact it is built in Woodinville, WA.   I am very  impressed.

All stainless construction

Folds away for easy storage and has a nice case

I like to use a little "Old Bay" seasoning with my crab.  Be sure to bring the water to a full boil, then add the crab.  Cook them for 18-minutes.  Cool the crab with fresh water.   Cook crab in salt water for best flavor, use sea-water or add 1-cup rock salt per couple of gallons.  I also hear that you can steam them and use less water.  I have not tried that technique yet.  

Note that I used a piece of plywood under the stove to dissipate the heat and not damage the fiberglass cockpit. 

Fisheries Supply in Seattle and LFS in Bellingham carry the Woodland Power Burner.  About $130.

Alaska Trip 2011: On to Port McNeill, staging for the next leg

Day 6:  Shoal Harbor to Port McNeill.   26-miles

Alaska is calling.  Today we will leave the Broughton's and get back on the road to Ketchikan.  But before we do that we need to check the crab pots one more time.  This morning we had 4 or 5 keepers, it was their lucky day as we all agreed that we had enough crab and threw them back.  I suspect that LaBelle will be anchored in Shoal Harbour again very soon...and Sam will get those crab again.

Black Bear on the beach at low tide.


Last night when Sam was walking his Border Collie Maggie, she came running down the logging trail looking back over her shoulder.  Maggie is a semi-retired cattle dog with a lot of experience around big animals.  She also has a good deal of common sense, this is bear country.  They were on the beach last night and this morning, and I suspect most days at low tide.  They tip the rocks with their claws trying to make a living.

Arrow Passage before the weather burned off - LaBelle

Cinnamon Girl heading towards Port McNeill.   Calm water!


Tomorrow Cinnamon Girl will head north and make her way around Cape Caution on one of the legs of the "Inside Passage" that is exposed to the Pacific.  The weather is very mild and Thursday should be a very nice day to feel the ocean swell under the keel.  This is also when we leave Sam & Diane, Maggie & LaBelle; the Hill's are going to continue to cruise in the Broughton's, Desolation Sound and possibly visit Princess Louisa Inlet on their way home to Anacortes.  They will have a great time on their American Tug.  Cindy & I both really enjoyed getting to know them and hope to cruise with LaBelle again.

Sam, Maggie & Diane aboard LaBelle.

Steve & Cindy Scruggs aboard Cinnamon Girl

Maggie in her new window seat!


How does a semi-retired cattle dog get a window seat on an American Tug?  Maggie, Sam & Diane are ranchers from South Dakota, Maggie is one of three Border Collie's they use to herd the cattle.  The Hill's purchased LaBelle (American Tug 34 #14) from me last year and I asked them in passing if they wanted to go pretty far north this year...  Maggie has worked on the ranch for twelve years, often running 25-40 miles per day.  She earned her vacation!   It was amazing to watch how easily she adapted to life on the boat.  On the first day of the trip Sam made her stay in the cockpit, by Desolation Sound she was sleeping in the salon, at Lagoon Cove I saw her on the pilothouse floor below Diane.  Today at Port McNeill she was on the upholstery looking out the side window.  Cool dog!  Sam, you are such a softie...

We went to the grocery store and have reprovisioned Cinnamon Girl.   We topped up her fuel tank.  Had a burger at Gus's and watched the first half of the Canucks game, the Canucks won;  all of British Columbia is hockey crazy at the moment.   Cinnamon Girl is ready for the next leg of her Alaska adventure.

It will be a few days before we have internet.  I have written a few things and put a time delay on them, so keep checking back.  Be sure to subscribe, it is over on the right where it says "follow".

Alaska Trip 2011: Goofing off around Shoal Harbour

Day 5:  Gone fishin' - 0 miles (we covered 10 miles in the dinghies)

Tuesday morning was gorgeous in Shoal Harbour.  I woke early to listen to the marine weather report and decide if we should take Cinnamon Girl and make tracks for Cape Caution, or if we should hold tight and relax.  Good news...the nice weather pattern looks stable.  We chose to goof off. 

Sam in his dinghy putting out the crab pots.  Click for full size picture.


Bill at Lagoon Cove told us the halibut were biting and Pierre gave us some octopus for bait.  We loaded up both dinghies and went around the corner to try our hand at halibut fishing.  In the past Diane had caught a 135-pounder so I figured we were in good company.

Cindy with the large halibut rod and a bigger smile.

Sam trying his luck

The water was like glass.  72-degrees and blue skies!


Ok, so we did not catch any fish.  In fairness we had no idea where to go.  Later Sam & Diane met a local and he marked all the good spots on their chart, they are going back into the Broughton's for week and I have high expectations for them.  I know they are lucky crabbers!

Sam and and a few of his victims

Years ago I read the book Full Moon Flood Tide by Billy Proctor and Yvonne Maximchuck.  It tells of Billy's life in the Broughton Island area, it is a good read and really gives one a great perspective on this area.  He was a logger and a fisherman and has always lived in the Broughton Islands.  Billy Proctor now operates a small museum around the corner from Echo Bay.   A few years ago when we cruised this area we missed the museum, this year I wanted to meet Mr. Proctor and shake his hand. 

Billy Proctor and his dog Goldie in front of  the museum at Echo Bay

Mr. Proctor is a great storyteller.   He showed Cindy & I the museum and spent nearly an hour with us.  He has just built a "hand loggers cabin" that is an exact replica of what a logger would have lived in; it is a cedar shack roughly 10' x 10' with a small wood stove and a bunk.  It is furnished with many of his own possessions.  He did a great job on the exhibit.  Be sure to go meet Billy as he is the best part of the museum.

The American Tugs in Shoal Harbour, no cell phones work here...

The new pot is lucky!!

Cleaning the crab.  It was a wise choice to take a lay day and relax.

Alaska Trip 2011: Side trip into the Broughtons - Lagoon Cove & Shoal Harbour

Day 4:  Lagoon Cove to Shoal Harbour, put out the crab pots - 22 Miles

Lagoon Cove Marina - Bill & Jean's place

After our push up from Desolation and through Johnstone it was time to play!   Bill at Lagoon Cove gave Sam & Diane some of his prawns... and pretty soon Sam was in Bill's little tackle shop looking at the prawn & crab traps.   I picked up a new green 4oz Buzz Bomb for salmon mooching.  Sam bought a folding Dependable Crab Trap, see my related article.  We decided to head for Shoal Harbour and hang out for an extra day so we could test Sam's new crab trap...

Internet access in the Broughton's - Lagoon Cove

Pacifc White Sided Dolphin in Knight Inlet - click to see full size

Knight Inlet was full of Pacific White Sided Dolphins and black Harbor Porpoise.  We saw a bunch of these guys.  The porpoise are a bit smaller and like to play in the bow waves of the American Tugs.  The dolphins go airborne!   Later Billy Proctor over at Echo Bay told me that the dolphins are really taking their toll on the salmon populations, a few dozen of them can herd a school of salmon into a cove and hold them there for weeks eating away the stock.  He reports there are 6,000 of the Dolphins in the area.  I took 88 photos of these guys and managed to get this shot.  I have 87 photos of splashes.

We anchored in Shoal Harbour, the T-shaped anchorage behind Echo Bay.  This is one of my very favorite anchorages.  Good holding and very pretty.  We put out the crab pots.  Good news!  Sam's new trap works. 

Sam and Diane Hill of LaBelle (AT-34 #14) and a few Dungenesss Crab.

We hopped in the dinghies and visited Pierre over at his new location in Echo Bay.  He has done an amazing job with the place in his two years there.  Tove will be up at the end of June.  They have the tent up on the old I-90 float and plan on weekly pig roasts again this year.  We should hold an American Tug mini-rendezvous there in early June 2012?  It is a great place.

Diane with Pierre at Echo Bay.

The Hill's on the left, Maggie & the Bear in center, The Scruggs's on the right.

We ended Monday with a great dinner of salad, dungeness and sourdough bread.  I could take to this roughing it on a boat...